Govee Track Installation Guide

Every corner and peak on your house can be made on site with tin snips and a speed square. You never need to measure your roof pitch: the overlapping flange at each joint covers the difference.

Download the full guide with photos (PDF)

Before you start

Tools: drill, tin snips (straight-cut), speed square, utility knife or razor blade to scribe cut lines, tape measure, ladder, work gloves.

Know your track: the face is the wide flat side with the holes your Govee lights press into. The flange is the narrow lip along one edge; it mounts to the house and overlaps at joints.

  • Cut on the ground, not on the ladder.
  • Scribe every cut line with a razor blade along the speed square.
  • Dry-fit every corner before you screw it up.
  • Keep light holes out of the piece you cut away.
  • Cut slightly outside your line; you can trim more, not add back.

Mounting options

Pick one option for the whole house so the lights line up.

Option 1: Standard, in the fascia lip. The standard permanent-lighting install. Slide the track up into the lip at the bottom of the fascia and drive a screw through the back flange. The lights sit at the outer edge of the roofline, away from the wall, for the widest spread of light.

Option 2: Closer to the house. Mount the track on the soffit at the distance you prefer, or follow Govee's spacing recommendation in their installation guide, with a screw through each flange. Mounting closer to the house throws a smaller cone of light onto the wall, so you can control the look.

Cut types

1-piece corner

Use when one continuous run of track turns a 90° corner. It's the cleanest corner because the track never separates.

  1. Mark the point on the top edge of the face where the corner will fall.
  2. Set the speed square on the face and scribe a 45° line from that point to the bottom edge.
  3. Flip the square and scribe a mirrored 45° line from the same point. You now have a V with a 90° opening.
  4. Snip along both lines and remove the triangle. The bottom flange between the lines comes out with it.
  5. Snip the flange at the point of the V.
  6. Fold the track until the two cut edges meet in a clean 45° miter.
  7. Dry-fit, then mount each leg.

2-piece corner

Use when two separate pieces meet at a 90° corner, such as when a run ends at the corner or a piece is too short to fold. The faces meet in a 45° miter and the flanges overlap behind the joint.

  1. Piece 1: set the speed square on the face against the end of the track.
  2. Scribe a 45° line across the face.
  3. Snip along the line through the face only. Leave the flange full length; it becomes the overlap.
  4. Piece 2: scribe and cut the same 45° line on the face.
  5. Cut the flange at 45° too.
  6. Fit the pieces so the faces meet and piece 1's flange laps behind piece 2.
  7. Dry-fit, then mount each leg.

Peak cut

Use at the top of a gable, where the track runs up one side of the roofline and down the other. A peak is made exactly like a corner, just folded to your roof angle instead of 90°.

  1. Find the spot on the track that will sit at the very top of the gable.
  2. Follow steps 1–5 of the 1-piece corner to cut the V notch and snip the flange.
  3. Fold the track to match the roofline. The flange overlaps at the top and hides any gap.

Step-by-step photos for every cut are in the PDF guide. Questions about your install? Contact us.